Twinkle by Wenlan showed a dramatic, moving gallery for Spring 2010, incorporating Yoko Ono’s independent spirit with Blondie’s incredible spunk. Signature prints draw me back to the days of studio art lessons, from scrambled Peeled Paint, dreamy Oil and Water swirls and splotches, to razor-sharp graphics in Paradise Etched.
Raw emotions are conveyed with intense pop art hues of coral red and glam hot pink – perfect in all-over solid statement pieces – while subtle yellow blots and watery blue fill the spaces in between. Black & white is still a hit whether in the form of loose fine gauge viscose cardigans or cool silk tucked into cuffed shorts.
The collection’s soft and hard elements make for a “colorful conversation”. Fluid lines and a sweet attitude played well with the “mash up” of acid wash, chunky choker-style necklaces and loud leggings. Billowy tops flow over sleek patterned skinny pants and “thunderbolts” of cutting edge neon charms outline smooth contours in bubble dresses, ruffles and open, exaggerated sleeves. BIG unruly hair, parted sharply down the middle, topped off each look.
This Day/Arise Magazine featured four designers in their African Fashion Collective 2009 show in the Bryant Park tents. Tyson Beckford, Alex Wek, and many other African-American super models walked the runway. Xuly.Bët, Funkin’ Fashion Factory was first up in the evening’s lineup. The models proudly strutted down the runway in form fitting sportswear constructed from corduroy, velour, denim, and pleather. A patent-leather head to toe look and denim jumpsuits rounded out the ensemble. The androgynous face of Grace Jones stretching and morphing on a screen behind the models was the real crowd pleaser of this portion of the show.
The second designer, Tiffany Amber, followed with pretty shantung dresses edged with intricate beading. Her attention to detail was evident in the colorful flower embroidery and wooden beadwork of her garments. Stoned Cherrie’s collection consisted of swing jackets and high-waisted cigarette pants, pretty cap sleeve dresses and blouson-sleeved shirts. The teardrop cut outs rimming the neckline of a dress had images of little purple women dancing inside- a beautiful, intricate detail. Momo’s collection was composed of animal printed silk knits and cashmeres which would be apropos in Palm Beach. The flapper-style hats provided a nice cohesive element to her line-up.
The show was extremely entertaining and festive and the exuberant crowd was one of the most supportive audiences I’ve ever encountered at a runway show. The presentation closed with looks from all four designers along with long white cotton dresses printed with President Obama’s likeness, which made for a perfect ending to an optimistic, upbeat show.
Designer Amy Smilovic instills a Russian fairytale’s “light-hearted moodiness” into Tibi’s Fall 2009 presentation. Ornate bird motifs and rich furs highlighted the collection while lavish use of gold trimming, which hinted of embroidery and brocade, kept off-shoulder folk dresses and jumpsuits refreshingly modern.
Expect solid citrus shades on flowy, asymmetrical sheaths and dusky hues on tailored outerwear. The theme is well captured with the dainty tsarina-inspired ruffle riding jacket and the long and lean Bolshevik wool coat. Large crystal chandelier earrings and traditional fur hats added an icy glamour.
Staple pieces include the stovepipe stretch wool pants and dark scooped tanks. There were a number dazzling looks with the boatneck Doystoevsky bloom sheath – a kaleidoscope of magenta blossoms in a teal pool – and the Enchanted Forest chiffon dress with gold beading. Other prints include purple and teal paisley, seen on tunics under fox furs, and the navy Firebird emblem.