Rebecca Taylor “explores urban femininity” for Spring 2010. Her collection, which showed at the tents on September 13th, encompasses blazers, sporty pullovers and slouchy trousers. However, there are still flirty elements to be had, and Taylor does not stray far from her coquette “kittenish” roots.
Mini blossom-printed sandals, handbags and belts add a lively balance to the structural details and trim silhouettes, especially when paired with all-over dark solid pieces. Stripes and suits are far from serious, and stretchy grey jersey tops and tank dresses are no longer drab. Many wearable pieces were shown, including a variety of printed petal skirts and button-down blouses. Taylor also embraces pure femininity with strapless “corset-inspired bustiers” and large ruffled dresses in big apple red and deep electric blue.
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
An “unabashedly pretty and feminine” siren takes center stage for Tibi’s Spring 2010 collection. Draped bias slip dresses in silk and chiffon layers provided the canvas for this lush presentation. “Great Expectations” opened the show, solid white cascading down the runway with a grand beaded blossom. A strappy, frothy gown sported a suede fleur appliqué down one shoulder. The two-tone ruffled sheath dress takes a bold step forward. This evening, Fern Gully came to life in a plethora of floral and foliage motifs.
Although hues were intense, the overall look is kept very minimalistic- a sleek black silk blazer, graffiti-marked structural pieces and origami laser cut details add a sensible maturity. Designer Amy Smilovic also gives her siren a tough edge with scraps of raw-edged ribbons weaving in and out of knotted buns and sandals with broad straps wrapped thickly around the ankle. The hummingbird motif is the core of the collection, providing a youthful energy, but feeling slightly junior as an all-over print. An abstract lily print, on the other hand, joined the frilly and contemporary together splendidly.
Thuy Diep borrows from the glamour of a silver screen goddess and adds an S&M twist to create a highly structural collection for Spring 2010. The iconic long and loose big white dress from the 30s is updated with trim cuts, succinct details and sprightly hues.
It’s short and sweet for spring, with many strapless and off-shoulder dresses, slim skirts and tapered trousers. Material use is light, with emphasis on neat gatherings and careful draping. Look forward to interesting cutouts, peek-a-boos and plenty of open-backs (revealing ties and fastenings in a messy chic manner). Exposed zippers hold their own, traveling around the bodice and over the shoulder, replacing straps. Thick black sashes and piping cinch and shape the hourglass figure.
Coifs are slicked back and dapper tuxedo jackets come cropped and decked out with hardware. The classic trench now shimmers in gold and makes a statement in translucent latex. Fitted bra tops are at the forefront, shown through a sheer peach cap sleeve blouse and under a low slung asymmetrical tank. Diep offers a collection that is enticing yet unpretentious. For spring, the intuition is playful.
Twinkle by Wenlan showed a dramatic, moving gallery for Spring 2010, incorporating Yoko Ono’s independent spirit with Blondie’s incredible spunk. Signature prints draw me back to the days of studio art lessons, from scrambled Peeled Paint, dreamy Oil and Water swirls and splotches, to razor-sharp graphics in Paradise Etched.
Raw emotions are conveyed with intense pop art hues of coral red and glam hot pink – perfect in all-over solid statement pieces – while subtle yellow blots and watery blue fill the spaces in between. Black & white is still a hit whether in the form of loose fine gauge viscose cardigans or cool silk tucked into cuffed shorts.
The collection’s soft and hard elements make for a “colorful conversation”. Fluid lines and a sweet attitude played well with the “mash up” of acid wash, chunky choker-style necklaces and loud leggings. Billowy tops flow over sleek patterned skinny pants and “thunderbolts” of cutting edge neon charms outline smooth contours in bubble dresses, ruffles and open, exaggerated sleeves. BIG unruly hair, parted sharply down the middle, topped off each look.
Designer Tadashi Shoji unveiled a crisp and very upbeat dress collection for Fall 2009. Vivacious hues, such as Rapture Rose, played an important role in casting this season’s message of hope and clarity. Wisteria, turquoise, and lime also livened up the sheer cream and ebony numbers.
Shoji worked a stunning, minimalistic approach in his styling where light elements (such as ruffled chiffon, sweetheart halters, and bubble pleats) received the rock glam treatment. The black tights, patent leather heels, studded belts, and crystal rhinestone baubles kept things powerful and edgy without overshadowing the feminine undertones.
– Tiffany Chang
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
See more photos from the Tadashi Shoji Show below