I love Fall clothing, but they tend to lack the vibrancy and color prevalent on the Spring runways. Although neutrals are big this Fall/Winter 2010, I was pleased to see rich jewel tones and bright prints in Thuy’s show. And speaking of jewels, the collaboration with Swarovski produced unique pieces like a gold shift dress armor plated with bronze and metallic pyramids, and a swingy grey wool dress with a cleverly designed paisley-style print detailed entirely out of crystals.
The show was full of eye-candy: glittering bronzes, sparkling fuchsias, even a black and white dalmation print. Light fabrics and strategic layering created a beautiful fluidity while maintaining an extremely ladylike shape. Some of the detailing around the waistline reminded me of a modern version of a kimono, but by keeping the layers airy and the folds structured, there was no sense of bulkiness. I was mesmerised by a red and black patterned dress with angel wing like draping along the arms. One can’t help but exude a natural grace when enveloped a dress like that.
The image of a Thuy woman radiates confidence, independence, and charisma, with a flash of exuberance. I can’t wait for Fall! —Nari Kim Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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From the stark experimental mechanical soundtrack to the androgynous robotic look of the models, Toni Francesc took us out of Bryant Park and into his world of “Artificial Life.” A world of Man vs. Machine; an even more cybermodern version of “Blade Runner” – a world of angular shapes, slim silhouettes, metallic greys, and rusted metal hues. Heightened exaggerated shoulders added to the cyborg aspect of his collection, along with his monochromatic business suits and accessories made out of exposed computer elements. Although not for the faint of heart, his chic streamlined collection gives one the strength to face any modern obstacle. —Nari Kim Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Designer Mimi Plange’s “Queen of The Night” fall 2010 collection was inspired by Mozart’s “The Magic Flute” and a heavy dose of 17th century luxury. Opera singer Sarah Callinan introduced the show with a theatrical performance. Plange’s garments featured a refreshing mix of sustainable organic products such as hemp and merino wool as well as leather and snakeskin. A pallate of rich blacks and deep reds dominated the show with embroidered embellishments. Other noteworthy details were the use of signature rose-knuckle rings and studded boots. Plange draws effectively from fashion history, offering wearable pieces for the modern woman.
Visit The Boudoir D’huitres website here. Photos by Nina Zambrano, visit her site here.
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Arise Magazine showcased 3 notable South African Designers for it’s Fall 2010 launch at the tents: Black Coffee, Nigeria’s Deola Sagoe and Tanzania’s Loin Cloth & Ashes.
Designers Jacques Van Der Watt and Danica Lepen make up the identity of Black Coffee which debuted a wonderfully dramatic yet soft line of pleated coats and dresses. Voluminous and muted, coats appeared in shades of rose, nude, salmon, slate and putty. The designers looked to Picasso, and his cubist reinterpretation of African masks. Hence, the quiet tones, the bell like proportions, the geometric folds.
Loin Cloth and Ashes went the decidedly modern route with the emphasis on strong shoulders for jackets and long slinky silk dresses. Playful nude and black stripes showed up in a drop waist dress which was unexpected and fresh.
Deloa Sage’s military inspired line continues the trend of sexy ripped tights, flourishes of lace and small braided epaulets for the shoulders. Her strong look at me silhouettes felt confident and assured, and felt made for the downtown set.
Arise magazine has managed to be the forerunners of introducing the world to global style. And it’s quite evident that South Africa has its own talent on the rise. — Jeanie Kwak Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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At Venexiana the main attraction was stunning floor length ballgowns that where tiered, pleated, fishtailed, and adorned with appliques, crystals and big satin bows. The color palette was very deep and saturated, enhanced with bold statement jewelry. Designer Kati Stern played with volumes, high necklines, backless pieces and different patterns that evoked an old Hollywood glamor feel. — Maria Giannakakis Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn
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Tadashi Sodji presented a frilly feminine collection this season. But don’t be fooled by all the ruffles and lace, because this girl is very sophisticated and sexy. Different materials and textures were shaped, pleated and draped to create beautiful evening-wear clothes with a modern edge. Some stand-out pieces included a long sleeved, skin tight metallic dress that glistened like a starlit night sky and had lines that wrapped around the model’s body with sheer cutouts. Another was a floor length gown with a plunging neckline and meticulously draped iridescent fabric perfect for a goddess ready to walk the red carpet.— Maria Giannakakis
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn. Be sure to watch our backstage video below the image gallery.
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Australian designer Michael Angel, drawing inspiration from stained glass, showcased a collection of strong tailored jackets, short hemlines, leather accessories and his signature digitally graphic prints. Top looks included body conscious party dresses fit for young Hollywood starlets. — Maria Giannakakis Photos By Stevyn Llewellyn
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For Fall/Winter 2010, Yigal Azrouel was all about architectural tailoring that blurred the fine line between his menswear and womanswear. There was much attention to details like leather inserts and sexy back cutouts. The color story consisted of black, brown, gray, cream and flashes of color shown in a bright red coat and a magenta evening dress. Some key pieces were leather jackets, tubular knits, patchwork sweaters and strong sleek suits.— Maria Giannakakis Photos by Nari Kim
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Arise: The African Collective threw it’s after party at the Plaza Hotel on February 23, 2010, including a surprise performance by R&B singer Solange who performed her hit single Sandcastle Disco. We have exclusive photos off all the attendees of this event on our special facebook page here: ARISE AFTER PARTY
If you were photographed at the party by our Modern Glossy photographers, check it out, tag your friends, and become fans on our facebook page for special exclusives.
Architectural pleats and layers dominated Adam Lippes’ namesake label this season. Bold berry hues and rich burnt orange played right into the F/W season with neutral cool greys, black and charcoal. Exposed metal zippers and dark sequin effects added a clean line of rigidity to the feminine shapes in luxurious fabrics, leathers, and fur. The warmth of the collection waxed and waned as neutrals floated in between burst of traditional fall hues. Metal appliques gave a protective coat of armor and deliberate, sharp tailoring hinted at a fitted form. The use of clearly girlish touches in crinkle pleated skirts mixed deliciously with cozy thick cable knits coated in foil. The few but purposeful and beautiful prints in the collection shone from the subdued first plaids to the last abstract animals. ADAM’s Fall/Winter collection simply just gets better the more you look at it. — Rachel Rozzi Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Designer Amy Smilovic was inspired by the photographs of Peter Beard. Her “masculine meets feminine” collection entailed draping paired with structure and rich neutral colors with contrasting brights.
Tibi’s fashion show consisted of 42 looks of balanced opposites and detailed ensembles. Colorful vivid prints and cute feminine wearable pieces were mostly accessorized with brown leather belts. Models sauntered down the runway with bouncy curly hair, most of them wearing burgundy or gray tights.
Some of the key pieces included a lieutenant coat in artillery suede and chocolate leather, a chiffon blouse paired with a suede pant, a bodysuit with a silk pant, a wool jersey dress, a sweater coat, a maxi skirt with a bodysuit, a leather short with chiffon tank, a beaded strapless bodice dress, and a lingerie corset top.
It’s all about tee layering-a glam bustier was layered over a sheer long sleeve tee, a strapless dress paired with a tee, a chiffon draped dress with a tee, and a sweet heart neckline dress with long sleeved tee.
This season’s Tibi Fall 2010 collection was feminine, stylish, and top notch with wearable pieces for any occasion. —Jenny Mar
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Six of the best and brightest students at the Academy of Art University debuted their collection at the tents at Bryant Park on Saturday, February 13th. The collections are representative of 4 of the school’s programs: Fashion, Knitwear, Technical and Textile Design. I always look forward to this show, if only to take a peek at what young designers are thinking about, if they’re questioning or reacting to the current climate of Fashion or if their approach is more interior. More often than not, their ideas are always conceptually rich, drawing from models of nature, or the history of photography or painting or architecture. Sometimes, it is the personal telling of someone’s memory or past. It is always exciting to see how they will translate it into clothing, and being that Fall is always big on knits, I was ready for some textural surprises. Knits in beautifully geometric shapes sprouted cone-like off of shoulders in Steven Oo’s merino wool collection, inspired by the Architecture of Massimiliano Fuksas. Hyo Sun An created spaghetti like strings hanging riotously off of shoulders on strong silhouettes which quite easily felt sci-fi and kind of streetwise/rock and roll. The romantic, prairie like creations of Naomi Sutton was my own personal favorite. It felt both dark and naieve, almost Amish, with long white cotton dresses that resembled undergarments taking on an American goth feel. Sabah Mansoor nestled jewel shaped crystals in her crocheted knits which had an interesting stars in the night sky effect. She also employed a Japanese technique of dying which consisted of creating a pattern by binding, stitching, folding and twisting fabric. Marina Solomatnikova’s collection was elegant, feminine and had a strong art-deco feel, with high silk blouses peeking out of structured sueded jackets. Bethany Meuleners truly employed the layering technique in her deep plunging gowns, mixing sheer chiffon over wool and lace and letting them as she states,”land off kilter.” A promising show for 6 young designers to watch. —Jeanie Kwak Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Wednesday night, I made my way into Chelsea to interview designer Sally Wu and her debut line Act 1. I was a bit late since I took the F train and had to physically run across town from 6th Ave to 10th and 11th. Those are long city blocks. And in heels, no less! I finally saw the familiar Highline (dark and sleepy due to winter days) and went through the glass doors to a quiet gallery. Immediately, I was hit by walls of bodies, girls in short chiffon dresses and dark eyeliner, men in bowties and glasses. I found my photographer and he pulled me backstage. Ok, we have 5 minutes. Models peered at me from behind another room, already dressed, their clothes rustling a bit, their hair sleek in the front and teased to a nebulous ponytail in the back. Sally stood still amidst the chaos, smiling and calm. We did our interview. Her collection, which was constructed in a record two weeks (my mouth dropped open at this and then seeing her collection, I was even more amazed) has the kind of sexy, effortless appeal that nyc girls aspire to. A cream colored ruffle silk blouse was a favorite, also the knit jackets with knotted bits of tulle and the wonderous wool boucle jacket with long nubs that fell down the front. I was especially taken by her knitted wool scarves in winter white colors that fit snugly around the necks of models. Her architectural influences are evident in her cocktail dresses, streamlined, but not severe and completely wearable. The mood was serene, the crowd watchful and silent. Whispers began to flutter around: ohh, wow, that’s great, do you like that? yes, that’s sensational. I turned around and it was a beautiful elderly woman with the brightest brown eyes and her husband in a smart red sweater and bow tie. I smiled. A litle asian girl stared at a model, her mouth open, her eyes wondering. Flashbulbs went off. And then I realized that simplicity and elegance is translatable at any age, in any language. — Jeanie Kwak Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn Visit Act • 1 online here Watch the video interview below:
The immensely immediate popularity of Prabal Gurung’s reputation proceeded him as Anna Wintour, Rachel Zoe, and Zoe Saldana adorned the outskirts of his Fall/Winter runway show this season. Needless to say, he lived up to it. His collection fared mostly on luxuriously tailored wools, silks and a drop dead gorgeous viscose gazar in stunning burnished gold, bottle green, and crimson red. His asymmetric tailoring worked well in both silks and wool, expertly shown to look color blocked with design purpose. Playful neutral fur and feather additions in dresses and jackets added a touch of old world glamor to the modernity of silhouette and line while a sprinkling of swarovski shot in a bit of glam. A bold black and crimson hooded drop-shouldered cape in a luxe double faced wool stole the show until a red carpet worthy crimson strapless gown closed down the catwalk to thunderous applause (Take note Rachel Zoe!). It seems Mr. Gurung still has a devotedly steady following. A following which is completely and utterly deserved.— Rachel Rozzi Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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Nothing brings out the crowd to fashion shows like celebrities. And when the clothes are actually modeled by them, the crowd intensifies. The Heart Truth’s Red Dress Show manages to combine fashion and stars in raising awareness for heart disease, the number one killer of women in the United States.
The air inside the main tent at Bryant Park was electric with anticipation as the audience eagerly awaited the seventeen celebrity models. Usually in most runway shows, a certain look or piece will draw gasps of awe and applause, but not this show. As soon as the celebrity’s name was flashed against the red curtain, the cheers erupted. And when the star stepped out onto the red velvet runway, the crowd went wild. Whistles and enthusiastic applause, along with a few standing ovations went on through the show as celebrities like Kristin Chenoweth, Raven-Symone, Felicity Huffman, Valerie Harper (of Mary Tyler Moore fame), and Estelle strutted their stuff on the runway. Swimmer Dara Torres walked barefoot, holding her strappy silver heels, much to the pleasure of the audience.
The designers of the seventeen red dresses left a lasting impression as well. From Badgley Mischka to Tracy Reese, each provided their own unique flair and style to the beautiful vibrant dresses, accentuating the personality of the celebrity. Jordin Sparks was exuberant and youthful in Badgley Mischka, Kim Kardashian was regal royalty in Marchesa, and Kimora Lee wore a powerful fiery number from her own Kouture by Kimora line. Crowd favorites were Joan Collins in elegant Stephane Rolland and Heidi Klum in statuesque John Galliano.
As bright crimson confetti fluttered onto the runway, the celebrity models danced and hugged each other at the end of the show. What a great way to start Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2010!
—Review and Photos by Nari Kim
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Designer Vassilios Kostetsos frequently turns to his heritage for inspiration, as he did for Fall/Winter 2010. With his muse being the greek drama Antigone, Vassilios brought forth a sexually driven collection with strong undertones of love and war. Colors like bright red, bold blue, and hot fuchsia were balanced with black,white, tan and bronze. Some looks included leather coats with exaggerated shoulders, patent hot pants with thigh high snake print boots, and skin tight silhouettes complimented with soft feminine drapery. The menswear was just as statement making as the women’s wear, and further characterized with metallic facial paint, making these boys ready to battle for love. From the orgasmic opening music (literally, sounds of a woman climaxing), to the high energy models in sensual ensembles owning the catwalk, it was a passionate and seemingly suitable ending to Valentine’s Day at Bryant Park. -Maria Giannakakis Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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The Fall 2010 Herve Leger collection screamed strong feminine empowerment. This woman is a sexy super hero “confident to stand tall in the face of the future”. Much kudos to Max Azria and Lubov who once again remain true to the Leger bandage theme but still manage to reinvent it. This season the captivating second-skin dresses were laced up in an architectural bondage manner, grommeted down, and pieced together with knit and metallic mesh inserts that simulated armor. Also included this season were some form-fitting separates like streamlined pants, jackets, tops and skirts. There was definitely a sensuous yet sporty play on shape, lines, and texture. Some other details included exaggerated hips, asymmetrical necklines and whirling seams. The color palette consisted of black, white, steel grays and pale nudes offset with some pops of accent colors like pink and green. Herve Leger continues to praise the female form by wrapping and enhancing it in some chic armor.— Maria Giannakakis Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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If I was lost out in the forest, I, too, would want a chunky, cream-colored knit scarf to warm my neck. And more than likely I would pair that with a beautifully shaped jacquard skinny pant with double zippers or maybe a cobweb lacy dress that hints to the trails that I have been and followed. I would perhaps take a few lucky accessories such as the Broken Thorn Necklace, Bulldog Leash bracelet or the Necklace of Cascading Tears . If I were going to encounter a witch somewhere and Hansel, my partner wanted to know where I found such rich warm knits and lovely amulets, I would cry, Twinkle by Wenlan, darlings! This season, Twinkle by Wenlan revisits the Grimm’s Fairy tale of Hansel and Gretel and imagines a line where nostalgia meets fantasy. The strength of the collection lies in the not so chunky knits, aptly named “baby chunky” because the designer plays with gauge sizes and texture, so knits can be woven from thick to see through. Stand out pieces were the cut out back knit sweater and the Lady Bovary hooded jacket that felt druid-like. Dresses were silky, structured and sheer, appearing in magenta and the basic black, which perhaps was not keeping with the forest theme, but still delicate and feminine nonetheless.—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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The designer’s “Hairy Metal” theme left this reviewer scratching her head a bit. As in Dokken or Whitesnake? It turns out that the “hairy” bit is really different types of shaggy fur (lining in a zig zag pattern across a wool coat, for example, or covering the shoulders like a stole). Furs were color-matched to the swirly, psychedelic graphics in the clothing which repeated itself in the men’s suits, bright leggings and short minis. The “Metal” theme refers to minerals of the earth, by utilizing colors of of bronze, steel, black gold and rust as well as aquatic colors of blues and mauve. The designer then turned the metallic volume up in a silvery, sequinned, belted coat, that despite it’s intimidating material, looked shapely and wearable. It felt a bit primordial, wild and pre-historic mixed in with a good helping of 70’s disco.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
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New York based designer Rachel Antonoff presented her brilliant Fall 2010 collection at Lafayette House. An instantly classic, mystery-themed show.
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