Last season Tia Cibani went to India for her inspiration; this season the Oriental countries of the east influenced her. Beautiful draped dresses, satin kimonos, and printed coats comprised her spring collection. Cibani created innovative silhouettes with her origami-esque pleating and asymmetrical construction.
It is clear that Cibani gives careful consideration to every aspect of her collection. There is an apparent evolution of her color scheme from season to season (gold lame and bright pinks last fall to mauve and silver for Pre-Spring, and now to even softer tones of pink and gray). Even the staggered pacing of the models walking the show was unique. Large intricate accessories such as stingray obi belts and long silk necklaces surrounded by clear vinyl completed the ensembles.
Tia Cibani is an avant-garde designer who keeps one wondering what she will come up with next- always provocative, but never outlandish. The Ports spring collection with its subtle color scheme, interesting details, and definitive wearability was a definite success.
The Ports 1961 Pre-Spring 2010 Preview was held on the top floor of the newly constructed, bi-level Ports boutique in the Meat Packing District of Lower Manhattan. The collection, composed of a simple, inviting palette of mauve, black, white, silver, and nude was a continuation of the colors presented in the spring runway show, albeit with a much softer approach. The garments were imbued with a strong early 1900s vibe evidenced in the draped backs and dropped waists of several dresses. Feminine and demure, hardly a single hemline fell above the knee.
Metallic fabrics and sequins embellished many of the garments. Crocheted shawls, necklaces and elbow length gloves were paired with the outfits. The results of the artistic collaboration between Charles Mackintosh and Margaret MacDonald, such as the Mackintosh ladder-back chairs, provided inspiration to Tia Cibani. This influence was readily apparent in the clean lines and simple silhouettes of her resort collection.
Photos provided by Ports 1961
This Day/Arise Magazine featured four designers in their African Fashion Collective 2009 show in the Bryant Park tents. Tyson Beckford, Alex Wek, and many other African-American super models walked the runway. Xuly.Bët, Funkin’ Fashion Factory was first up in the evening’s lineup. The models proudly strutted down the runway in form fitting sportswear constructed from corduroy, velour, denim, and pleather. A patent-leather head to toe look and denim jumpsuits rounded out the ensemble. The androgynous face of Grace Jones stretching and morphing on a screen behind the models was the real crowd pleaser of this portion of the show.
The second designer, Tiffany Amber, followed with pretty shantung dresses edged with intricate beading. Her attention to detail was evident in the colorful flower embroidery and wooden beadwork of her garments. Stoned Cherrie’s collection consisted of swing jackets and high-waisted cigarette pants, pretty cap sleeve dresses and blouson-sleeved shirts. The teardrop cut outs rimming the neckline of a dress had images of little purple women dancing inside- a beautiful, intricate detail. Momo’s collection was composed of animal printed silk knits and cashmeres which would be apropos in Palm Beach. The flapper-style hats provided a nice cohesive element to her line-up.
The show was extremely entertaining and festive and the exuberant crowd was one of the most supportive audiences I’ve ever encountered at a runway show. The presentation closed with looks from all four designers along with long white cotton dresses printed with President Obama’s likeness, which made for a perfect ending to an optimistic, upbeat show.
Toni Maticevski’s show was held off site at the Roger Williams Hotel on Sunday, September 7, 2008. Maticevski is a young Australian designer showing for the fourth time at New York fashion week. His Spring 2009 collection was inspired by both the book “Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939” and by the fashion of this period. His inspiration was immediately evident in several of his 1920s inspired dresses. These short dresses were hemmed with silk fringe that swung as the models walked and were reminiscent of a flapper girl’s costume.
Maticevski choose to work mostly in silk and lace, often embellished by flower appliqué or long coiled shoulder details. His draping and pleating was beautifully accomplished and at times origami-esque. A few pieces were extremely sheer, but the silhouettes of these dresses and even the boudoir feel added to the overall nostalgic mood of the presentation. The collection was exquisitely tailored and wearable yet full of interesting detail to distinguish it.
Sergio Davila has been producing menswear for some time, but this was his debut runway show under the tents at New York Fashion Week. His elegantly tailored suiting was often edged with athletic stripes or other quirky detail that lent a unique air to his pieces. Some suits were accented with slightly feminine detail such as mandarin collars or loose knitting that provided glimpses of skin. The women’s wear was sporty and sexy with sheer crocheting and keyhole detailing. The entire collection appeared casual and comfortable yet extremely well tailored- all in all an exceedingly successfully runway debut.
– Lyndsay Skeegan
Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week