Akiko Ogawa Fall 2009

akiko1Akiko Ogawa-This mid week show offered much of what appears to be a la mode in New York: asymmetrical structured jackets (in this case juxtaposed with draped skirts of the sarong sort). Akiko Ogawa presented an edgy take on Fall favoring fitted jackets with bold shapes and tailoring coupled with nubby sweaters and lean trousers. The collection reflected a sleeker take for the designer who in earlier seasons displayed a penchant for feminine overtures.

The most noteworthy element of the collection was the tension Ogawa was able to create both in fabric combinations as well as in combining structured jackets with delicately draped pieces. She paired nubby cardigans, and sweaters with lean trousers.  The overall look was youthful but edgy. The show opened with a nubby cardigan in a tealy blue belted and paired with sarong style skirt.  Ogawa demonstrated a flare for construction creating asymmetrical jackets that while daring retained a figure flattering shape. Ogawa took a stab at the ever so tricky jauper showing it in wool paired with a matching bolero style jacket in an admiral navy. Of the many jackets shown a favorite was a winter white version with large lapels.

The palette further reinforced Ogawa’s moody fall musing; constrained to a moody range of navy and black offset by ivory, a rose quartz tone and an ombre that slipped between the three. While ombres were all the rage just last Fall Ogawa’s version seemed worthy of note, perhaps because of the note of softness it added to the otherwise aggressively shaped jackets.

In moments the show became repetitive but the take away collection anecdote was lean and but not mean. In a season of tepid shows, Ogawa presented a collection with a spirited point of view that was worthy of consideration. Ogawa remains a talent to watch. Her command of balance and tension is worth keeping an eye on.

-A Coelho
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn 2009.
View a slideshow of the entire Akiko Ogawa collection, below.

See the end of the show below:

See still photos from the show below.