It’s all in the Tailoring: Modern Architecture Meets Modern Tailoring

6119: Ilana Sunderland

Canadian born designer llana Sunderland comes from a long line of tailors. For two centuries the Sunderland family has passed down the tradition of fine tailoring. So it should come as no surprise that Ilana Sunderland seems most at ease in this ever-so precise realm of constructing clothing.

Sunderland’s Savile Row roots betray her, in a collection that emphasizes cut and construction. Her approach to tailoring is obviously based in a clear understanding of construction. Before launching her own signature line the designer had stints had several renowned fashion houses were she able hone her design voice. Sunderland says,
“My goal is to create the ultimate fit. Wearing a perfectly tailored dress or suit is the epitome of luxury, sophistication and sexiness. I want my designs to convey those qualities”.

For her sophomore presentation, the designer showed a strong range of women’s and men’s tailored suiting with a sprinkling of dresses. Sunderland was inspired by modern architecture. (Perhaps, an homage to her father, the noted architect). It’s always interesting to hear where a designer draws inspiration from; it’s even more interesting to see whether they will take their inspiration too literally. Sunderland showed great restraint, there was a clear nod to linear forms and sleek shapes but it was overly indulgent. Sunderland showcased her favored pleating technique to great affect in a myriad of ways. The pleating appeared as detailing and in some cases an entire garment was comprised of tiny pleats. The collection showed Sunderland’s ability to address all the needs of clientele from work wear to evening wear to overcoats. Notable looks included a double breasted midnight (navy) suit, a brown full length pleated coat for women and structured coats with pleat detailing for both sexes.

Where Sunderland’s attention to tailoring and detailing sung her color palette fell flat the haphazard, restrained palette included Ruby (red), Midnight (navy), Heaven (light blue), black and a leopard print. But one could clearly see that any of these looks would translate in basic black for more metro-focused look (its fairly certain the entire collection will be available in black).

Overall this was a promising second showing. Sunderland is sure to make a name for herself with the minimalist set, with work that features some of the hallmarks of a certain 7th avenue minimalist and yet uniquely her own. It will be interesting to see where Sunderland takes us next season.

– Alexander Coelho