The Architect of Fashion Goes for a Dip

Yeohlee – In a season where craftsmanship is becoming a major story- Yeohlee Teng stands a pillar and reminder that making beautiful clothes is an art form.

For Spring Yeohlee Teng offered a meditation on the globule shape of jellyfish juxtaposed with a surprisingly new take on the geometric rigidity of cubes and parabola shapes. The result- a collection that felt organic and ethereal but grounded.

Well known for her structured clothing this collection felt decidedly softer and I dare say, even feminine. The Yeohlee aesthetic is rooted in clean, strong linear lines and the exploration of form and structure, so this season’s softer direction felt especially fresh.
Popular to a sect of fashion intellectuals who count on her each season to provide, what have become Yeohlee staples- useful but intriguing separate including- trousers, capelets, and hooded coats. This collection featured jumpers paired with parka like jackets that looked modern and actually very wearable. Yeohlee is every bit a craftsperson and each season she takes on a new technique, this season it appeared to be shirring and tucking. I was particular fascinated by what Teng referred to as shirring- essential a bias torque ruching that would diagonally bisect blouses, dresses and skirts. Teng echoed the whimsical shapes of jellyfish with an ingenuity that is true of only a well seasoned architect. This technique of shirring produced the billowy look that is characteristic of floating jellyfish. Instead of collars, Teng framed the face with this amorphous shape on blouses and light weight jackets. This softer incarnation of the Yeohlee look was a masterful rendition of deductions and redirection.

The collection was rendered in a soothing palette and interesting fabrics. The combination of sheer or translucent jerseys mixed with starchy fabrics lent a sensual and tactile element to collection. For Spring ’09 Teng’s play on sheer and opaque fabric added an intriguing tension to the collection. Sheer blouses with linen skirts were the perfect balance of languid and rigid. Always a purest when it comes to selecting her color palette for spring, Yeohlee constrained her color story to soft sand tones highlighted with a bold coral underlined with lots of white.

For Spring ’09 Yeohlee invites us to take a dip with her and explore the weightless beauty of deep waters and easy dressing. True to her roots but reaching for the unknown this collection was an underwater dream. Teng stands a steady presence in the roaring sea of fashion trends and comings and goings- her work always retains a standard of quality and beauty that uplifts and moves the industry forward.

A. Coelho
Photos © Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2008, all rights reserved