Custo Barcelona’s Fall 2013 collection is titled,“The Beauty and the Beast” which, to be clear, is no reference to a particular Disney film. The title is apt; the feral yet refined pieces we saw down the runway felt like the designer’s call of the wild, with western inspired patterns and heavy wool scarves draped over shoulders. The designer used rich, somber colors, and shots of gold, almost Klimt-like in its execution. All of the sexiness he’s known for was delivered in the micro-mini dresses with fur and leather touches and bold stitching. He calls it Nordic, and perhaps with the heavy coats it is, but it feels downright Russian to this writer. Even though his geometric patterns are still present, and are baroque in manner, it’s not as interesting as when he goes softer, more abstract with his patterns. I like the jumpsuits and soft scarves and slouchy backpacks. There’s something current and young about the accessories. The designer has loosened his hard-edged aesthetic. He calls it sport. But I think he’s just brought casual back into his designer language, but more luxe, more wild, and more free.
Photos/Review: Jeanie Kwak