As a Pratt Alum, Andy & Debb Spring 2010 was another collection that did me proud. The pieces played with shapes, textures and had a very 50’s feel. I can see them dressing the cast of MadMen with this line. We saw bubble skirts and chic tailored suits in a palette of burnt orange, copper, gold, and magentas. Kudos, Prattlings.
– Monica Lo
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn
Phillip Lim showcased a very futuristic approach in his vision of Britain in the 1960s. Backed by a live performance from singer Lissy Trullie, the feminine swinging frocks and masculine charcoal and leather palette conveyed a chic and glamorous capsule of the era.
Powder trenchcoats, buttoned cream leather gloves, and pastel pantsuits were prim and classy. Revolutionary jackets were updated with ivory wool and silver trim, and ruffled high collar blouses dazzled in magenta and goldenrod, both shown over spice tapered trousers. Sheer floral A-line dresses, a strapless fur-embellished tank, and this cropped blazer blessed with the Midas touch bestowed the right amount of flair to the black jackets and heavy outerwear.
The streets and narrow alleys of London were kept alive with black & silver stripes over burgundy tights, lace wristlets, sequined tanks, and jumbo gold-studded leather handbags, all topped off with a short bob and sleek bangs. Christian Louboutin provided the red-bottom soles for both men and women. The dangling gold chain, open-face pocket watch is the only (perfect) thing missing in this very sophisticated line.
– Tiffany Chang
See more looks from the Phillip Lim show below
6119: Ilana Sunderland
Canadian born designer llana Sunderland comes from a long line of tailors. For two centuries the Sunderland family has passed down the tradition of fine tailoring. So it should come as no surprise that Ilana Sunderland seems most at ease in this ever-so precise realm of constructing clothing.
Sunderland’s Savile Row roots betray her, in a collection that emphasizes cut and construction. Her approach to tailoring is obviously based in a clear understanding of construction. Before launching her own signature line the designer had stints had several renowned fashion houses were she able hone her design voice. Sunderland says,
“My goal is to create the ultimate fit. Wearing a perfectly tailored dress or suit is the epitome of luxury, sophistication and sexiness. I want my designs to convey those qualities”.
For her sophomore presentation, the designer showed a strong range of women’s and men’s tailored suiting with a sprinkling of dresses. Sunderland was inspired by modern architecture. (Perhaps, an homage to her father, the noted architect). It’s always interesting to hear where a designer draws inspiration from; it’s even more interesting to see whether they will take their inspiration too literally. Sunderland showed great restraint, there was a clear nod to linear forms and sleek shapes but it was overly indulgent. Sunderland showcased her favored pleating technique to great affect in a myriad of ways. The pleating appeared as detailing and in some cases an entire garment was comprised of tiny pleats. The collection showed Sunderland’s ability to address all the needs of clientele from work wear to evening wear to overcoats. Notable looks included a double breasted midnight (navy) suit, a brown full length pleated coat for women and structured coats with pleat detailing for both sexes.
Where Sunderland’s attention to tailoring and detailing sung her color palette fell flat the haphazard, restrained palette included Ruby (red), Midnight (navy), Heaven (light blue), black and a leopard print. But one could clearly see that any of these looks would translate in basic black for more metro-focused look (its fairly certain the entire collection will be available in black).
Overall this was a promising second showing. Sunderland is sure to make a name for herself with the minimalist set, with work that features some of the hallmarks of a certain 7th avenue minimalist and yet uniquely her own. It will be interesting to see where Sunderland takes us next season.
– Alexander Coelho
Toni Maticevski’s show was held off site at the Roger Williams Hotel on Sunday, September 7, 2008. Maticevski is a young Australian designer showing for the fourth time at New York fashion week. His Spring 2009 collection was inspired by both the book “Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939” and by the fashion of this period. His inspiration was immediately evident in several of his 1920s inspired dresses. These short dresses were hemmed with silk fringe that swung as the models walked and were reminiscent of a flapper girl’s costume.
Maticevski choose to work mostly in silk and lace, often embellished by flower appliqué or long coiled shoulder details. His draping and pleating was beautifully accomplished and at times origami-esque. A few pieces were extremely sheer, but the silhouettes of these dresses and even the boudoir feel added to the overall nostalgic mood of the presentation. The collection was exquisitely tailored and wearable yet full of interesting detail to distinguish it.
-Lyndsay Skeegan