Tag Archives: Rachel Rozzi

Lilith

Written by Rachel Rozzi, Model: Maria Giannakakis, Photos:  Stevyn Llewellyn
Written by Rachel Rozzi, Model: Maria Giannakakis, Photos: Stevyn Llewellyn

Along a darling row of shops on Mulberry sits Lilith, a beautifully ambianced storefront and space with dark wood accents and a ripple of cranberry wall. The boutique is a veritable treasure trove of unique hand crafted pieces meant for layering while also being statement pieces on all their own. From jewelry, knit vests, mesh basics, leather shoes and much more, the assortment shows a true dedication to the French design team’s vision. Lilly Barreth, head designer, is inspired mainly by Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons (along with other asian designers of the 70’s and 80’s) and designs for the multi-faceted woman.

The Lilith woman doesn’t have one identity, she is inclusive, global, and can be anywhere from her late teens and anywhere above and beyond. She is a mother, a career woman, a wife, and just a woman looking for comfort and style. There is a rarity in such an all encompassing brand, but Lilith successfully defies the separation of ages with clear cut design, simplicity and ease of wear.
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The store is free flowing, merchandised easily by fabrication, color, and print. Gorgeous statement pieces mix in with easy to wear and closet integrateable items such as faux fur wrap-around cropped coats and mesh long sleeved tees and leggings, respectively. The key looks are voluminous and provide interesting and fresh silhouettes that play on the creative woman’s mind. The tailoring is excellent and witty providing that the wearer understands the way the garment is meant to be worn or is clever enough to play with it. However, that small quandary can be resolved by the knowledgeable and sure staff’s advisement. While shopping is the literal verb in action at Lilith, the more encompassing emotions are of discovery and true creativity, as the boutique opens up a world devoid of fast trends and fad styling to help the consumer become unique through the art of dressing.

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With bi-coastal stores in Manhattan and Berkeley, CA, the Lilith woman can “discover” and use her creativity while traveling to such vacationing destinations, but will have to wait for more sister stores until the boutique opens it’s hopeful doors in Chicago, Boston, and maybe even in Orlando, Florida.
– Rachel Rozzi
Dominique Debroux contributed to this article.
Fast Facts:

  • Lilith is derived from Lily Barreth’s first and last name
  • The name Lilith is also known in Jewish Folklore as Adam’s first wife before Eve, who created equal to him, ran away after seeking equality in their relationship
  • The boutique is 2350 sq. feet of shopping bliss and opened Sept. 30th, 2002
Lilith • 27 Mulberry Street • New York, NY 10012-4126 • Phone:  (212) 925-0080

Academy of Art University Spring 2010

academy of art iniversityThe Academy of Art University showcased seven of their newly graduated designers from the Fashion, Textile and Knitwear Design program on September 12th at The Tent (Bryant Park). That’s no small feat for a young designer- a show at the Tent is sure to garner some attention. The show was an eclectic mix of lively colors, interesting play of shapes, cuts and textures, each designer veering off from their own source of inspiration—whether it was a David Hockney Painting, a Thai Buddhist temple or the intricate architecture found within a gem, each had a unique expression and vision.

academy_banner1Marina Nikolaeva Popska, a designer born and raised in Bulgaria, drew on the “color and chaos” of nature. Her collection was full of multi-colored jacquard dresses. The weight of the knits actually swayed a bit as the models walked down the runway. I thought this was interesting—I enjoyed watching the movement of the garment—one could feel and sense the pendulous weight of it. The patterns were lovely, rich but also carefully muted by a background base of nude tones. One particular dress reminded me of the inside of an oyster. Lovely.

Kara Sennet, drew upon the David Hockney 1966 painting, Beverly Hills Housewife.
The colors felt candy-like, sweet, almost artificially sweet, and I have to wonder if this artifice was intended, and I have to say yes, despite the retro-looking cuts and boat neck tunics. Once I saw the super shiny turquoise vinyl pants and wild neon yellow platforms, I see that she was taking the artifice and having a bit of fun with it. The color blocked bows are sweetly wrapped around the waist but are not actual bows. Models wore white rimmed shades and looked like larger than life dolls.

Amanda Cleary has interned with Elie Tahari and Verrieres and Sakko. Her background is in graphic design which accounts for the strong collage like feel of her collection. Her concept is “packaging design.” There are interesting cut-out details, almost puzzle-like and cut out key hole peeks of the neck and arms. Patterns are placed with different textural feels, such as bonding black silk Lurex to cotton twill which results in the look of eel skin. An interesting, strong collection.
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Richelle Valenzuela, born in the Phillipines and long time San Francisco resident used the facets of a gem as inspiration. He focused on the architectural structure of a gem, its chambers, rather than its glitz. Working in gunmetal greys and slate blue silk organza, his collection swayed in layers of accordian like fabric and neatly pleated tops and skirts. White button down shirts were worn underneath his grey swaying pieces, providing a crisp, austere background to his architectural pieces. This only further accentuated the rich sway of fabric. A lovely collection.

Brittany Major, a designer that hails from the Carolinas, and who once interned with Zac Posen, had a collection full of bright plaids. While plaids may make one think of preppy conservatism, her collection deconstructs the idea of “preppy” and plays with one’s expectations where this pattern is concerned. Playful and fun.

Jie Pan, a designer from China, used the abstract paintings of Anna Fidler to show her technical design skills. There are strong geometrical cuts here, and strong contrasts of material such as horsehair with silk chiffon, linen with organza. Peak shoulders were wonderful to see. A strong, confident collection.

academy3Sawanya Jomthepmala was born in Thailand. She drew upon the glass mosaics of Thai Buddhist temples as well as origami-like details of Krathong which are small boats made out of banana leaves. Her collection was full of neon prints and playful, symmetrical prints. Vests had wonderfully arched lapels, which unified a bright, energetic collection.

– Jeanie Kwak

Photos by Rachel Rozzi and Stevyn Llewellyn
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G-Star Spring 2010

g-starG-Star’s Spring/Summer 2010 show was reminiscent of a mix of a sci-fi film with sailors. Emerging out of moving cylinders, models strutted down the long runway, and guests had the opportunity to absorb the detailed craftsmanship of each piece with a better view.
I was quite surprised that G-Star NY Raw Spring/Summer 2010 collection was not just focused entirely on denim and jeans. The show begun with female models wearing white bikini shorts with plunging neckline structured jackets. Key pieces for women were dresses, beach wear separates, trench coats, belted coat dresses, wrap dresses, body suits, vests and jackets. Key items for men consisted of sportswear, cropped pants, trench coats, suits, jackets, fitted pants, skinny jeans, golf shirts and suspender pants.

Jeans are never basic for G-Star NY Raw collection. For women, the updated boyfriend jean was exaggerated with a baggy loose top and tapered into a skinny jean. The look of the denim pants were boyish and loose which was tapered in the leg. For men, jeans were baggy with a long fly and tapered bottom. Skinny jeans were also present.

G-Star is known for their tailored structured outterwear. The men’s collection consisted of tailored coats and jackets. Shorts were matched with blazers. The cut was similar to last season’s silhouette of drop crotch features. Military style jackets were presented for the women’s line. Their usual blue color palette also consisted of white. Printed silk dresses, shirts and ties softened the raw denim look.
– Jenny Mar
Photos by Rachel Rozzi


Hervé Léger by Max Azria’s Spring 2010 Collection

legerWhen 90’s pop band Right Said Fred sang “I’m too Sexy…” they probably weren’t talking about Hervé Léger by Max Azria’s Spring 2010 Collection, because there’s nothing that screams more seduction than body-con. The show was a glamazonian parade of tan, willowy beauties with free-flowing hair in, for the most part, Léger’s famous bandage, body-con dresses. Although Azria mixed it up a bit with looser styles in the form of circular mini-skirts and leave-nothing-to-the-imagination body suits, the bandage dress was the star of the show.

One look in particular shone mid-show displaying a twisted spider web of knit stretch held together by seams of raindrop splattered crystalline lines, body hugging and ergonomic seaming, Max you make us blush! Mostly cohesive, save for a couple numbers of multi washed and frayed denim body-con (what were you thinking Max?) that played Polly Anna with the audience rather than Polyamory. Still, the Léger Collection was a stunning show with muted but sky high heels that gave the models legs for months, and our bandage dress fix to look forward to while we all work our butts off at the gym til Spring.
– Rachel Rozzi, Story and Photos
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Cesar Galindo Spring 2010

cesar galindoCesar Galindo captivated his audience with a stunning show filled with fantasy and drama. His futuristic yet fun pieces include multi-layers of textures and fabrics- from matte to high shines, metals to stones, silk to wovens. Wavy cowl necks and exquisitely designed gowns are consistent in Galindo’s collection. As a native Texan as well, I am glad that Cesar Galindo is here in New York doing us proud.
-Monica Lo
Photos © Rachel Rozzi, Stevyn Llewellyn 2009