Tag Archives: Rachel Em

Academy of Art University Spring 2010

academy of art iniversityThe Academy of Art University showcased seven of their newly graduated designers from the Fashion, Textile and Knitwear Design program on September 12th at The Tent (Bryant Park). That’s no small feat for a young designer- a show at the Tent is sure to garner some attention. The show was an eclectic mix of lively colors, interesting play of shapes, cuts and textures, each designer veering off from their own source of inspiration—whether it was a David Hockney Painting, a Thai Buddhist temple or the intricate architecture found within a gem, each had a unique expression and vision.

academy_banner1Marina Nikolaeva Popska, a designer born and raised in Bulgaria, drew on the “color and chaos” of nature. Her collection was full of multi-colored jacquard dresses. The weight of the knits actually swayed a bit as the models walked down the runway. I thought this was interesting—I enjoyed watching the movement of the garment—one could feel and sense the pendulous weight of it. The patterns were lovely, rich but also carefully muted by a background base of nude tones. One particular dress reminded me of the inside of an oyster. Lovely.

Kara Sennet, drew upon the David Hockney 1966 painting, Beverly Hills Housewife.
The colors felt candy-like, sweet, almost artificially sweet, and I have to wonder if this artifice was intended, and I have to say yes, despite the retro-looking cuts and boat neck tunics. Once I saw the super shiny turquoise vinyl pants and wild neon yellow platforms, I see that she was taking the artifice and having a bit of fun with it. The color blocked bows are sweetly wrapped around the waist but are not actual bows. Models wore white rimmed shades and looked like larger than life dolls.

Amanda Cleary has interned with Elie Tahari and Verrieres and Sakko. Her background is in graphic design which accounts for the strong collage like feel of her collection. Her concept is “packaging design.” There are interesting cut-out details, almost puzzle-like and cut out key hole peeks of the neck and arms. Patterns are placed with different textural feels, such as bonding black silk Lurex to cotton twill which results in the look of eel skin. An interesting, strong collection.
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Richelle Valenzuela, born in the Phillipines and long time San Francisco resident used the facets of a gem as inspiration. He focused on the architectural structure of a gem, its chambers, rather than its glitz. Working in gunmetal greys and slate blue silk organza, his collection swayed in layers of accordian like fabric and neatly pleated tops and skirts. White button down shirts were worn underneath his grey swaying pieces, providing a crisp, austere background to his architectural pieces. This only further accentuated the rich sway of fabric. A lovely collection.

Brittany Major, a designer that hails from the Carolinas, and who once interned with Zac Posen, had a collection full of bright plaids. While plaids may make one think of preppy conservatism, her collection deconstructs the idea of “preppy” and plays with one’s expectations where this pattern is concerned. Playful and fun.

Jie Pan, a designer from China, used the abstract paintings of Anna Fidler to show her technical design skills. There are strong geometrical cuts here, and strong contrasts of material such as horsehair with silk chiffon, linen with organza. Peak shoulders were wonderful to see. A strong, confident collection.

academy3Sawanya Jomthepmala was born in Thailand. She drew upon the glass mosaics of Thai Buddhist temples as well as origami-like details of Krathong which are small boats made out of banana leaves. Her collection was full of neon prints and playful, symmetrical prints. Vests had wonderfully arched lapels, which unified a bright, energetic collection.

– Jeanie Kwak

Photos by Rachel Rozzi and Stevyn Llewellyn
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G-Star Spring 2010

g-starG-Star’s Spring/Summer 2010 show was reminiscent of a mix of a sci-fi film with sailors. Emerging out of moving cylinders, models strutted down the long runway, and guests had the opportunity to absorb the detailed craftsmanship of each piece with a better view.
I was quite surprised that G-Star NY Raw Spring/Summer 2010 collection was not just focused entirely on denim and jeans. The show begun with female models wearing white bikini shorts with plunging neckline structured jackets. Key pieces for women were dresses, beach wear separates, trench coats, belted coat dresses, wrap dresses, body suits, vests and jackets. Key items for men consisted of sportswear, cropped pants, trench coats, suits, jackets, fitted pants, skinny jeans, golf shirts and suspender pants.

Jeans are never basic for G-Star NY Raw collection. For women, the updated boyfriend jean was exaggerated with a baggy loose top and tapered into a skinny jean. The look of the denim pants were boyish and loose which was tapered in the leg. For men, jeans were baggy with a long fly and tapered bottom. Skinny jeans were also present.

G-Star is known for their tailored structured outterwear. The men’s collection consisted of tailored coats and jackets. Shorts were matched with blazers. The cut was similar to last season’s silhouette of drop crotch features. Military style jackets were presented for the women’s line. Their usual blue color palette also consisted of white. Printed silk dresses, shirts and ties softened the raw denim look.
– Jenny Mar
Photos by Rachel Rozzi

Rebecca Taylor Interview

rebeccaModern Glossy had the privilege to interview Rebecca Taylor on her new mini collection “Mommy and Me” which is currently selling at boutiques nationwide.

What made you start your “Mommy and Me” line?
Now I have two little ladies. I can imagine our clothes on them. Tiny mini-mes running around!

How do the economic woes of the present affect your perception of the cardigans and how well consumers will react to it?
In this economy, consumers are looking for special, unique pieces. I think this mini collection of Mother/Daughter cardigans provides an emotional connection.

This line is obviously different from your edgy, coquettish namesake label, how do you transfer the Rebecca Taylor aesthetic to something more undoubtedly subtle?
The Mommy & Me cardigans are an extension of my collection. They are feminine, modern, and offers the same special details that are on my RTW line, such as a stone closure and a ruffled shoulder.

What would you say your ideal customer for the “Mommy and Me” line is, aside from the role of mom? What kind of Mom?
My ideal customer for the Mommy & Me line is fashion-forward and understands the Rebecca Taylor sensibility. She loves magical details that make each item special.

View images of the collection below.

– Interview by Rachel Em
-Photos and illustration  copyright Rebecca Taylor

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At Home with Noah G POP

noahgpop1Home in Chelsea hosted the Noah G POPography fashion show last chilly Thursday night. A (short) red carpet was laid outside for the invitees. Artists, friends and family, and even NYC’s own Naked Cowboy made a fur coated, semi-naked appearance for the cameras. Outside the club guests mingled with a cleavage baring interviewer in front of a Hollywood premiere styled Noah G POP Banner. Female guests were clad in barely there mini dresses, opaque tights and fur coats, a staple of New York winter fashion. One stylish attendant wore a pair of gorgeous black satin pumps accented with gold trim. Fashion fans to seniors outfitted with oxygen tubes filled up the line to get into Home, a sight probably not so often seen there at this 27th street lounge. Noah G POP started off his event with an hour long open vodka bar and the DJ spinning top 40’s hip hop, as everyone made their way with Vodka mixers to the dance floor. Curiously, an air traffic controller waving light-sticks directed the crowd off the dance floor as “Womanizer” pounded its way through the speakers.

The models came out from behind the DJ booth sporting sublimation and inkjet printed silk jersey and cotton tees over dresses and dark pants, clearly showing that the focus of the design work was in the art depicted onto the apparel. The cut was slim and fitted much like a baby tee, and not very inspiring in the way of construction technique. Noah G Pop’s talent was conveyed mainly in his artwork on the far left wall, his signature Pop art style with a graphic design twist. The use of “tattoo inspired” print heavy on the glitz and rhinestones invoked one of Noah’s primary designer influences, Ed Hardy’s Christian Audigier, whom Noah jokingly confided in Modern Glossy of his plan to overtake. His Men’s line was smaller and simpler, black blazers with glimmering crystal and metal appliqués. Though a bit yawn-worthy in the name of couture fashion, the music and venue seemed appropriately distracting so that one couldn’t complain too much about the show’s lack of length and awkward segue into full-on dancing of everyone near the floor. Nevertheless, the interesting, shocking (did I mention the Naked Cowboy?), and artsy crowd made up for the fact that Noah G’ show slightly disappointed, and the vodka tonics didn’t hurt much either.

But one can’t blame Noah for trying out his creativity in other outlets, as artistic people tend to be good in other mediums. However, we’ll give him good credit since the line between Fine Artist and Fashion Designer is a hard one to straddle successfully. Bonus points also should be awarded since this event was hosted to benefit underprivileged children via the Rush Philanthropic Arts Foundation.
-R Em
photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
see more photos from the event below


Zac Posen Fall 2009

Zac PosenFive Steinways and draped lamé dresses decorated Zac Posen’s catwalk on Thursday night of Fashion week. His 40’s goddess glamour inspired collection held several Hollywood red carpet potentials, much like his collections as of late. Posen’s ability to create a show so A-list packed, both with models and celebrities, is uncanny. Due to the star studded event, tent security would not let anyone without a physical invitation pass, and the sign-in table mandated picture I.D. The amped up security proved to be worthy of the attendees, who got both a classical concert and a fashion show in one.

Uber-trendy young Hollywood starlets such as Rachel Bilson and Joy Bryant flocked together with fashion giants, stylist Patricia Field and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The models glided down the runway in beautifully draped and structured ensembles, some more architectural than others, but kept lines all looking fluid. Most of the collection was shown in neutral tones with flashes of bright, shiny color and lots of cocktail jewelry. The proportions of a gray portrait collared dress were fun and reminiscent of soap opera extravagance, all shoulders and body hugging. Another number made in the gray rippled sheer had a sweet hint of bright purple underneath, visible slightly through the body and peeked out at the bubble hem.

There was one sparkly number than caught the attention of this writer in particular. When a gorgeous hybrid of gold-silver lamé with a built up collar and plunging neckline came down the catwalk, you could almost hear the stylist’s pens circling this piece on their programs. One could almost place bets on this piece ending up on one of Rachel Zoe’s celeb clientele. Mr. Zac Posen, with the looks of this production, if you design, we will come regardless of the ridiculously tight security measures.

R. Em

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
See more photos from the Zac Posen show below