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Custo Barcelona Fall 2010

The designer’s “Hairy Metal” theme left this reviewer scratching her head a bit. As in Dokken or Whitesnake?  It turns out that the “hairy” bit is really different types of shaggy fur (lining in a zig zag pattern across a wool coat, for example, or covering the shoulders like a stole). Furs were color-matched to the swirly, psychedelic graphics in the clothing which repeated itself in the men’s suits, bright leggings and short minis.  The “Metal” theme refers to minerals of the earth,  by utilizing colors of of bronze, steel, black gold and rust as well as aquatic colors of blues and mauve. The designer then turned the metallic volume up in a silvery, sequinned, belted coat, that despite it’s intimidating material, looked shapely and wearable. It felt a bit primordial, wild and pre-historic mixed in with a good helping of 70’s disco.
—Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn


Runway Spring 2010

Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week featuring finales by Lacoste, Georges Chakra, Andy and Debb, Academy of Art University, Christian Siriano, Chado Ralph Rucci, Vivienne Tam, Thuy, Diane VonFurstenberg, Rebecca Taylor, Tuleh, and Custo Barcelona. Filmed by Stevyn Llewellyn for Modern Glossy.


Custo Barcelona Spring 2010

custoCusto Dalmau of Custo Barcelona promised us a “Mediterranean paradise” and the most “high energy show of the season” for his Spring 2010 viewing in the Tent at Bryant Park. If the Mediterranean is filled with near deafening house music and Alek Wek, count us in, at least for the first 10 minutes. Although Custo Barcelona gave us a definite value for the coveted seats in the black walled tent, the show ran awkwardly long and droned with the same background beats.

The collection was full of not-too-neon bright prints (that didn’t seem to have a running theme), fringed layers, and as much embroidered trim that you could (or couldn’t) ever want. If it wasn’t patterned, it was lamé. Lipstick painted mouths splashed all over the runway in “matchy-matchy” his-and-hers duets that brought up questions of, “now what couple would wear that together?” Shiny solid sports coats and prep star jackets in collegiate striped pink and green paired with purple brocade (and lamé, don’t forget) above the knee shorts.

Menswear and womenswear alternated on the platform, as well as hues of flesh. A bevy of dark skinned gods and goddesses tramped out on the runway followed by their lighter counterparts and then back again, which confused and distracted a bit from the clothing. Was Dalmau making some kind of social statement, or perhaps some kind of symmetry of the skin tones? What more, while each piece was elaborate and skillfully done on its own, and the collection cohesively color coded, the over-brilliance of each piece made the lot seem blander than intended. When every look is special, they all run together like melted crayons in the box. Custo gave exactly what he intended to give us when he said “high energy”, but unfortunately, it was of the sugar rush brand that came crashing down all too soon.
-Rachel Rozzi
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn [svgallery name=”custo_barcelona”]