Return of The King

Chado Raplh Rucci SPring 2009
Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2009

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.


I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.

Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Paola Hernandez Spring 2009

Paola Hernandez presented a very languid and luxurious show today at the Soho Grand Hotel. After the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week, it was lovely to enjoy a couple glasses of wine and interact with the models. The Mexican-born designer, Hernandez, also circled the room, describing her all-white collection. The looks were mainly androgynous, with linen sandals and large talisman rings worn by both male and female models.

There was also a runway presentation, but the models walked with exaggerated, unhurried steps, pausing several times so we could see the subtle details in the white cotton and linen pieces. The dimly lit room also added to the dreamy ambiance – I liked how clean, crisp lines were accentuated even more with shadows.

The racerback, long v-neck dress was my favorite. From afar, the piece resembled fine gauge knitwear, but the ribs and deep scoop played well on jersey for a more lavish appearance.

There were many facets to the presentation which I really enjoyed – the trim trenchcoat looked incredibly modern with the ultra-high collar. The elastic waist-banded jumpsuit was super sporty. A sharp blazer thrown over Bermuda-style shorts was fun and preppy.

– Tiffany Chang

Touching the heavens with feet firmly planted


Ports 1961- For those who question whether fashion can transcend its practical use to become something more, to touch on the divine, I suggest turning to the collection of an artist at work- Tia Cibani’s collection for Ports 1961. Her Spring ’09 collection, ‘Beloved of the Sky’, is the collaboration of true artisans, who obviously take great pride in their craft.

Cibani drew inspiration from impressionist painter Emily Carr’s journey through the Canadian totem forest. The color palette reflected Carr’s strong use of bold color- azure blue, subtle sand tones, soft but vibrant yellows and shots of spicy paprika made for a deliciously inspired color story. Cibani called upon various techniques to invoke the grandeur of the soaring totem poles- including tiered layers, tailored lines and manipulated fabrics. She used horizontal bands of fabric in monochromatic color and varying weights to great affect. She offered a plethora of well tailored suit- combining sliming skirts with roomy but structured jackets (often belted). In one intriguing look a model glided out in sand colored cigarette trouser with matching top cover in gigantic leaf shaped sequins. Other uses of embellishments were less successful, as in the barrage of fringe that often pushed some of the looks into the realm of costume.
At the root of this collection, beneath the artistic jewelry and sculptural hats (that may not translate to real life) was a collection of solid spring clothing. Both slouchy and cigarette trousers were present, paired with anvil shaped jackets and coats. Car coats are everywhere, and Cibani’s renditions were some of the most inviting, as in the plum colored version that featured tiers of cotton tulle that faded into tiers of charmeuse. A favorite look was the quintessentially Ports sheath in a textured black fabric belted with a gigantic pleated copper belt- it felt smart and important. A monochromatic print sheath with metallic coat belted is sure to make a strong statement in the board room. For those savvy enough to break the collection a part there are lots of unique pieces that are sure to become Spring ‘09 favorites.
Whether or not you are fashion forward enough to go for the head to toe Ports’ look, you certainly have to recognize its merit. This season Cibani partnered with three unique designers to realize her vision. The masterful millinery skills of Karen Henriksen were noteworthy. Jewelry designer Lina Peterson who is well known for her use of unconventional materials offered an innovative and modern take on jewelry. Julia Lundstien shoes provided just the right quotient of organic earthiness to this texturally rich collection.
Perhaps what I found most endearing, most special about this collection, was that it had integrity. This was the culmination of a collaboration of artists who were thinking, striving to create something that upheld their standard of beauty. Whether or not we all subscribe to it is partly irrelevant- it was clear that they were displaying the height and girth of their passion and their abilities and for that I applaud them.

A. Coelho

Vicente Villarin Spring 2009

Vicente Villarin made its debut runway presentation today at the House of Bumble. For Spring 2009, Designer Joanne Cordero Reyes offered a collection of ethereal dresses, aptly named “Light Against Sky”.

It was a cool combination of chiffon and rock as undulating ruffles and pleats carried its own beat. Cathedral elements such as vivid stained glass windows and marble cream pillars were transformed into feminine silhouettes. Reyes looked to bring “pure, modern elegance” by using romantic textures and architectural influences. Linen/cotton jackets featuring charming shoulder details brought flying buttresses to mind while statuesque forms illuminated an airy and soft serenity. My favorite was a gown with appliqué made to look like rose glass shards sprinkling over the landscape of the fabric. Details were not to be overlooked, with silver zippers and gold accented shoes as finishing touches.

I am truly excited to discover another contemporary Asian designer. Reyes is Filipino American and takes her greatest inspiration from her grandfather, Vicente Villarin Cordero, who was a composer. Reyes’ highly flirty, but incredibly sophisticated line is definitely something to include in your closet and look out for on red carpets!

– Tiffany Chang

Harlan Bel Spring 2009

Harlan BelI very much looked forward to Harlan Bel’s Spring 2009 show after learning that designer Brandy Lunsford draws inspiration from equestrian themes. Lunsford’s collections always feature tailored, functional pieces that convey “cool confidence and carefree beauty”.

There was something very dignified and noble in Lunsford’s presentation. Classic black and white formed the foundation of the collection, especially in the form of leather and silk. Pleasant jewel tones of turquoise, peridot, and amethyst emblazoned the sleek palette.

Crisp, clean pieces were anything but plain when embellished with canvas and suede suspender-like straps, tiered pleats, and sharp cut-outs. The plethora of short shorts, cropped tees, and strapless dresses were youthful and sexy!

I was absolutely fixated at the frizzy, crimped ponytails swinging back and forth – the wrapped black leather added a touch of high class. The ebony platform heels really brought to mind dainty, galloping hooves. The most amusing accessory was the sophisticated, lady-like eyewear.

-Tiffany Chang