Category Archives: fashion

The Architect of Fashion Goes for a Dip

September 11, 2008 Glossy

Yeohlee – In a season where craftsmanship is becoming a major story- Yeohlee Teng stands a pillar and reminder that making beautiful clothes is an art form.

For Spring Yeohlee Teng offered a meditation on the globule shape of jellyfish juxtaposed with a surprisingly new take on the geometric rigidity of cubes and parabola shapes. The result- a collection that felt organic and ethereal but grounded.

Well known for her structured clothing this collection felt decidedly softer and I dare say, even feminine. The Yeohlee aesthetic is rooted in clean, strong linear lines and the exploration of form and structure, so this season’s softer direction felt especially fresh.
Popular to a sect of fashion intellectuals who count on her each season to provide, what have become Yeohlee staples- useful but intriguing separate including- trousers, capelets, and hooded coats. This collection featured jumpers paired with parka like jackets that looked modern and actually very wearable. Yeohlee is every bit a craftsperson and each season she takes on a new technique, this season it appeared to be shirring and tucking. I was particular fascinated by what Teng referred to as shirring- essential a bias torque ruching that would diagonally bisect blouses, dresses and skirts. Teng echoed the whimsical shapes of jellyfish with an ingenuity that is true of only a well seasoned architect. This technique of shirring produced the billowy look that is characteristic of floating jellyfish. Instead of collars, Teng framed the face with this amorphous shape on blouses and light weight jackets. This softer incarnation of the Yeohlee look was a masterful rendition of deductions and redirection.

The collection was rendered in a soothing palette and interesting fabrics. The combination of sheer or translucent jerseys mixed with starchy fabrics lent a sensual and tactile element to collection. For Spring ’09 Teng’s play on sheer and opaque fabric added an intriguing tension to the collection. Sheer blouses with linen skirts were the perfect balance of languid and rigid. Always a purest when it comes to selecting her color palette for spring, Yeohlee constrained her color story to soft sand tones highlighted with a bold coral underlined with lots of white.

For Spring ’09 Yeohlee invites us to take a dip with her and explore the weightless beauty of deep waters and easy dressing. True to her roots but reaching for the unknown this collection was an underwater dream. Teng stands a steady presence in the roaring sea of fashion trends and comings and goings- her work always retains a standard of quality and beauty that uplifts and moves the industry forward.

A. Coelho
Photos © Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2008, all rights reserved

fashion

Gottex

September 9, 2008 Glossy

fashion

Thuy

September 8, 2008 Glossy

Thuy- Need another dose of happy? Well, Thuy will certainly deliver. For Spring’09 the designer showed a hodgepodge of sunbathed separates. It was evident that this collection was aiming to provide a quotient of cheeky ease. Charmeuse mini shorts cuffed in patent leather, shrunken blazers and flirty dresses are sure to make an impression this spring. A Slouchy car coat in bright orange and another in a salt and pepper with shoulder detail were interesting albeit random. This collection is best left to the adeptly fashionable tween set, who are bested prepared to make use of the plethora of pieces that can be layered and mixed for girly glam.

It may soon be time to dawn our new winter coats but for the moment it’s still warm enough to plan next summer’s wardrobe!

A. Coelho

fashion

A Deliriously Jubulant Dose of Youthful Zeal

September 8, 2008 Glossy

Miss Sixty- Fashion shows are always bustling scenes but there are certain shows that seem to bring out a very specific type of fashion enthusiast – the kind who hoots and hollers and waits in line for hours just for a shot at “standing room” seating- Miss Sixty continues to be one those cult like shows.
For Spring 09 the Miss Sixty aficionado can look forward to youthful zeal! Miss Sixty is always a show about peace and love – and well just really fun clothing. Anyone who is familiar at all with fashion knows that if you want fun denim Miss Sixty is the place to go. More and more however, the Miss Sixty collection is addressing all the wardrobe needs of their fashion hungry clientele. The prescription for this coming spring is easy enough: prints, color and denim of course!
Chiffon blouses in colorful prints revisit the peace-lovin’ days of 70’s. Even maxis made an appearance, but how can you go 70’s without them! The collection offered a wide spectrum of separates that can be layered to create a very personal look. Billowy tops in a butterfly print and racerback tanks with various silk screened images rounded out the offerings. All in one jumpsuits and rompers are sure to insurrect a tween frenzy.

The palette ranged from neon brights tempered with white to touches of tan and soft ecru colored denim. And just in case you have overdosed on skin-tight denim the Spring‘09 Miss Sixty collection offers an unexpected antidote: Harmen pants. Yes, Harem pants- in your choice of chiffon, lurex or denim. Believe it or not, I am fairly certain some will make their way from the runway to the streets.

A. Coelho

fashion

Twinkle By Wenlan Spring 2009

September 8, 2008 Glossy

Twinkle by Wenlan’s Spring 2009 collection takes inspiration from 1960s iconic actress Jean Seberg. Indeed, designer Wenlan Chia infused old Hollywood glamour in a whimsical and ultra-feminine interpretation of Seberg’s “school girl charm”.

There were vintage-inspired prints galore, including splattered, sugared diamonds, cross-stitch sparrow and blossom motifs, and even an animal print suggestive of a spotted Dalmatian coat. Creamy hues of terracotta, lemon yellow, and mint green brought an upbeat, bohemian highlight. Bouncy georgette, satin chiffon, and dry voile layered sweetly over classic, masculine textures of houndstooth and oxford.

Suits were trimmed down to double-breasted strapless dresses and pleated bustiers. Wide belts cinched the look together. A structured, beehive-style updo and stacks of fabric-covered bangles added an alluring touch to the free-spirited collection.

Always noteworthy is Twinkle’s signature knitwear, which took a daintier approach this season. Cotton/cashmere loosely draped, racerback halters and dolman-sleeved sweater dresses provided a luxurious feel to the trim silhouettes.