Aug 132010

Chic.tv and filmmaker Rami Rinot Present their New York fashion week documentary on designer Tia Cibani and the label Ports 1961.

Designer Marcy Clark from the brand Shauntelé , is interviewed by Modern Glossy’s own Maria Giannakakis. Her collection is described as Alluring and flattering, creating a sophisticated balance between elegance and femininity. Her newest line is inspired by the artist Henri Rousseau, and Miss Josephine Baker. Shauntelé has tailored Jessica Simpson and Judy Reyes, and recently participated in the design competition Style Wars. She is a part of our ongoing series on Showroom New York, the collective dedicated to maintaining the Garment District in New York. Watch the exclusive interview filmed by Stevyn Llewellyn below.

Visit Shauntele here.

May 172010

Models Renee Gee, Katherine Chan, and Rebecca Zhou in Olive Wu • Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Modern Glossy had the pleasure of Interviewing designer, Olive Wu after her presentation at NYU’s Expo 2010 fashion show.

Your palette for the fall 2010 season is primarily a romantic mixture of muted and shimmering dark colors, what type of fabrics did you use to achieve this effect?

OW: It’s a mixture of all different kinds of fabrics in wovens & knits, such as jacquard, tulle, wool twill, lace, and some novelties.  I combined them together to create the textured & shimmering effect I was looking for.  It’s fun to play with hard and soft textures at the same time.

You use texture in this collection, integrated with layering.  What type of embellishments did you use on the jacket and skirt? Also, We also noticed that some of the pieces integrated intentional tears in the knits. What influenced this approach of texture?

OW: I used buttons as decoration on skirt and jacket; they’re strategically placed on the garments.  Those buttons are mainly vintage military buttons.  Rhinestones & pearls are also thrown in to give some varieties.

I also liked the challenge of maintaining elegance through seemingly broken, torn knits- the disruptive tone is softened and balanced by the light, transparent tulle.  This design concept is somewhat a reflection of modern life – finding order and integrity in chaos.

What influenced the collection as a whole?

OW: Initially I wasn’t sure what the theme should be, but I knew I wanted to present the whole collection in a black color palette, so I picked various textures in shades of black.  Then I had all these exquisite antique buttons to utilize, and they go against black beautifully.

In the making process, I started draping and piecing fabrics together.  I thought I had the textures I desired, but decided something was still missing.  That’s where the tulle came in.  It gives dimension.

In terms of style, I wanted to stick to classic silhouettes, so I did the puff skirt, cocktail minidress, long sleeve tee… etc.

With all the above elements combined, this collection came to be military meets royalty meets rock-n-roll with a touch of romanticism.  It’s extravagant minimalism.

What type of woman do you design for?

OW: She is chic and glamorous. She’s sassy but not showy. She is classic but certainly not boring at all.  She likes subtlety, but doesn’t mind to have fancy accent on her outfits.  Her inner beauty shines through on the exterior. She’s one of a kind and just a lot of fun!

You work at Ralph Lauren as well. Does the Ralph Lauren aesthetic influence your work in any way?

OW: Well, yes and no.  I learn to love and appreciate “authenticity” at Polo Ralph Lauren.  He has classic styles, and he can make just about anything into his American life style.

I have a different take on my own designs.  I want people to feel every piece is distinctive and it represents their individuality.  I want people to know each garment is thoughtfully made.  I’d like to be more of an artist than a designer.

As a creative person, how do you find your inspiration?

OW: I am always collecting things or tears I like… be it a picture of beautiful scenery, a cute crafty object, a cool graphic design, a special vintage handbag or button, or just a beautiful piece of fabric…  Inspirations come from everyday life.  I get inspired by art, music, fashion, culture, places and people.  Different ways of thinking and concept give me ideas as well.  My motto is to “never stop learning”.

Where can one purchase Olive Wu designs?

OW: If anyone is interested in purchasing my designs, please feel free to contact me directly at olive1207@gmail.com.  Or visit my  Facebook page here and ModelMayhem website.

What are your future plans for this line?

OW: My goal is to participate in more runway shows and eventually establish my own label. I hope to gain more support from people who like my designs and have the opportunity to sell them at department stores and specialty boutiques. I am collaborating with talented people to make it happen.  And I am also networking to find business savvy people to help me to launch the line. Still a long way to go but one step at a time.

Models Chelsea Ignagni, Michelle Marques, and Pauline Ma in Olive Wu • Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Wednesday night, I made my way into Chelsea to interview designer Sally Wu and her debut line Act 1. I was a bit late since I took the F train and had to physically run across town from 6th Ave to 10th and 11th. Those are long city blocks. And in heels, no less! I finally saw the familiar Highline (dark and sleepy due to winter days) and went through the glass doors to a quiet gallery. Immediately, I was hit by walls of bodies, girls in short chiffon dresses and dark eyeliner, men in bowties and glasses. I found my photographer and he pulled me backstage. Ok, we have 5 minutes. Models peered at me from behind another room, already dressed, their clothes rustling a bit, their hair sleek in the front and teased to a nebulous ponytail in the back. Sally stood still amidst the chaos, smiling and calm. We did our interview. Her collection, which was constructed in a record two weeks (my mouth dropped open at this and then seeing her collection, I was even more amazed) has the kind of sexy, effortless appeal that nyc girls aspire to. A cream colored ruffle silk blouse was a favorite, also the knit jackets with knotted bits of tulle and the wonderous wool boucle jacket with long nubs that fell down the front. I was especially taken by her knitted wool scarves in winter white colors that fit snugly around the necks of models. Her architectural influences are evident in her cocktail dresses, streamlined, but not severe and completely wearable. The mood was serene, the crowd watchful and silent. Whispers began to flutter around: ohh, wow, that’s great, do you like that? yes, that’s sensational. I turned around and it was a beautiful elderly woman with the brightest brown eyes and her husband in a smart red sweater and bow tie. I smiled. A litle asian girl stared at a model, her mouth open, her eyes wondering. Flashbulbs went off. And then I realized that simplicity and elegance is translatable at any age, in any language. — Jeanie Kwak
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn
Visit Act • 1 online here

Watch the video interview below:

Video by Stevyn Llewellyn

Written by Rachel Rozzi, Model: Maria Giannakakis, Photos:  Stevyn Llewellyn

Written by Rachel Rozzi, Model: Maria Giannakakis, Photos: Stevyn Llewellyn

Along a darling row of shops on Mulberry sits Lilith, a beautifully ambianced storefront and space with dark wood accents and a ripple of cranberry wall. The boutique is a veritable treasure trove of unique hand crafted pieces meant for layering while also being statement pieces on all their own. From jewelry, knit vests, mesh basics, leather shoes and much more, the assortment shows a true dedication to the French design team’s vision. Lilly Barreth, head designer, is inspired mainly by Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons (along with other asian designers of the 70’s and 80’s) and designs for the multi-faceted woman.

The Lilith woman doesn’t have one identity, she is inclusive, global, and can be anywhere from her late teens and anywhere above and beyond. She is a mother, a career woman, a wife, and just a woman looking for comfort and style. There is a rarity in such an all encompassing brand, but Lilith successfully defies the separation of ages with clear cut design, simplicity and ease of wear.
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The store is free flowing, merchandised easily by fabrication, color, and print. Gorgeous statement pieces mix in with easy to wear and closet integrateable items such as faux fur wrap-around cropped coats and mesh long sleeved tees and leggings, respectively. The key looks are voluminous and provide interesting and fresh silhouettes that play on the creative woman’s mind. The tailoring is excellent and witty providing that the wearer understands the way the garment is meant to be worn or is clever enough to play with it. However, that small quandary can be resolved by the knowledgeable and sure staff’s advisement. While shopping is the literal verb in action at Lilith, the more encompassing emotions are of discovery and true creativity, as the boutique opens up a world devoid of fast trends and fad styling to help the consumer become unique through the art of dressing.

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With bi-coastal stores in Manhattan and Berkeley, CA, the Lilith woman can ”discover” and use her creativity while traveling to such vacationing destinations, but will have to wait for more sister stores until the boutique opens it’s hopeful doors in Chicago, Boston, and maybe even in Orlando, Florida.
- Rachel Rozzi
Dominique Debroux contributed to this article.
Fast Facts:

  • Lilith is derived from Lily Barreth’s first and last name
  • The name Lilith is also known in Jewish Folklore as Adam’s first wife before Eve, who created equal to him, ran away after seeking equality in their relationship
  • The boutique is 2350 sq. feet of shopping bliss and opened Sept. 30th, 2002
Lilith • 27 Mulberry Street • New York, NY 10012-4126 • Phone:  (212) 925-0080

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